Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Yucatan: Valladolid, Chichén Itzá, and Home

Cenote Samula

The Yucatan is unique in that almost all of the rivers flow underground. Settlements were made where the people could get access to this fresh water through sinkholes called cenotes. Now, you can visit many and swim in the extra cold water.
We stayed our last night touring in the town of Valladolid at the beautiful Meson del Marques hotel on the main plaza.
The church was rather plain inside except for the statues for the Palm Sunday/Easter parades.







We wandered into a little market building while looking for a place to eat lunch. There were about 5 little lunch places. 4 of the places had a fellow calling to passer-byers to come and eat, one place couldn't spare the tout because they were so busy with customers. We chose to eat there, and the food was phenomenal and incredibly inexpensive. Raul got his usual Cochinita Pibil. I had had CP before in Mexico City and had raved about it, but Raul had never had this Yucatecan speciality of slow cooked, marinated, extra tender and juicy pork. At my recommendation, he tried it our first night, and he ordered it and sopa de lima every day from then on. We'll be perfecting this recipe ourselves soon.


Maundy Thursday, my family and the entire population of France visited Chichén Itzá.
There was a vast number of French people in Mexico this week. It was odd to here someone speak Spanish with a French accent. But even weirder was to hear the various small, brown vendors of Mayan heritage which line the paths at Chichén Itzá hawking their goods in French. The cool thing about the Yucatan, is that the Maya people are still around and their culture is still strong (despite the fact that many people think they were wiped out by the conquistadors). In fact, most people speak Mayan first and Spanish second. We spotted this sign at an Oxxo -- a common Mexican convenience store. No idea what it means because I don't speak Mayan.
Back in Mérida, we saw this dashing dude, and I think he's smiling like that because he knows he has such great hair. That jaunty curl -- swoon worthy.

And then we flew home.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Yucatan: Tulum and Coba

There is some law somewhere that says that if you go to the Yucatan, you have to visit the beach. We rented a cabaña on the beach in Tulum for one night. Seen above was our backyard. Below, the little place we stayed -- all glass and terracotta and palm roof. Beds had mosquito netting, and the bathroom had a carved out tree trunk for a bathtub. It was very rustic, and the power cut out from 11:00pm until 6:00am.



Our plan was to visit the ruins at Tulum that morning at 8:00 when they opened the gates, but at 8:30 when we arrived, everything was still all closed up with no indication of when they might bother to open. So since there is no true pyramid there, and since Raul and I had visited these ruins long ago on our honeymoon, we skipped them and went straight to Coba.
Raul didn't really want to go to Coba originally, but I didn't want to miss it, and with time on our hands, we popped in. A lone rain cloud threatened to cool everything down, but it was just passing through. Such a tease!
The sacrifice we made to the weather gods was not acceptable.

When we thought we had seen everything, we came to a large group of bikes for rent and bicycle taxis to hire. The taxi drivers all tried to get our business to take us to the Grand Pyramid, warning us that it was 2 km away and we would surely die if we tried to walk it ourselves. So off we went in that direction -- on foot. 1km in, we came to a fork in the road. We chose the right-hand path which seemed wider, and found ourselves surrounded by jungle noises, lovely vistas, banyan trees, and all alone. Finally we arrived to a display of Mayan stele, but no pyramid.
By this time, the girls were tired and wanted to give up, but I was angry that we picked the wrong path (and could have asked any number of people, but failed to), so I marched ahead, took the other route, telling my family to wait for me at the split. By this time, there were a zillion other tourists, all zipping by me on their rented bikes or hired taxis. I kept wondering to myself if there really was a grand pyramid, if maybe there was some sort of scam going on since I had already seen a fairly large pyramid when we first arrived at Coba. But as I turned a bend, suddenly, there was the biggest pyramid in all of the Yucatan. 12 stories tall -- 130 feet. Even though I knew my family was waiting for me, I couldn't arrive there and not climb it. Up I went, wondering again why the tiny little Maya people would build such tall steps. About halfway up, I turned to see how much progress I had made, and climbing up about 12 steps down from me, I see a fellow in an orange shirt and white fedora, just like Raul. It was Raul! He and the girls felt bad that I was going it alone and would still have 2km to walk back, so they hired some taxis and came to pick me up and take me back when I was done. So sweet!
So, normally, we live in Mexico City, at 8000 feet above sea level. Before we left, I had gotten on the elliptical to get some exercise, and gave up after about 20 minutes, feeling incredibly out of shape. Then here in the Yucatan, I would run up these pyramids. It's amazing what you can do when you're getting enough oxygen. It was a huge ego boost.

Yucatan: Izamal and Ek'Balam

Almost the entire city of Izamal is painted this dust yellow ("From dust you came and to dust shall you return") for when the Pope came to visit. Izamal's other weird bit is that there is a whole complex of pyramids here, and the Spanish just build their town and monastery around them. They poke out of people's back yards rather unexpectedly.

Cross-country we passed a palm truck. They are bringing the palm fronds to use in roofing.

Ek'Balam was a fun little set of ruins. The main "pyramid" isn't really a true pyramid at all, but an acropolis that originally had a lot of these little buildings on it that you see here. It's still as tall as the pyramid at Chichén Itzá (about 96 feet), and Nevarra and I ran up and then slowly came back down.



Yucatan: Rio Lagartos

Rio Largartos is a nature reserve and flamingo sanctuary at the northern tip of the pennisula. We stayed in the little fishing village of San Felipe nearby, which was quaint though tiny.

Our guide was very knowledgable and would pull right into the mangroves to show us something interesting while calling to me, "Get your camera ready!"




Bittern
Yucatan Parrots
Osprey
American Flamingos
Puffer Fish
Black Hawk
Black Hawk Catching the Puffer Fish we threw at it
Frigate Birds
Juvenile Ibis
The last we saw of our guide Gabriel...
...baiting this crocodile. (Our guide lived)
Horseshoe Crab
Mayan Massage



Nevarra takes over boating duties
There is still evidence of the destruction of the mangroves from the 2002 Hurricane Isadore.

Gabriel's brother (or cousin) caught a barracuda on the Gulf jetty